Korea and Her Neighbours

First published in 2003. Isabella Bird's account of her journeys in Korea in 1898 represents one of the very rare accounts of that country in the latter part of the nineteenth century. At that time Korea was virtually a forbidden land and had only been open to foreigners for about ten years. It was and had been under Chinese influence for centuries. The trip was very difficult but so fascinating that, true to character, Isabella adored it. She undertook many arduous journeys by land and river, observed the breathtakingly beautiful countryside, visited the Buddhist monasteries and had many audiences with the Korean king and his soon to be assassinated queen. While Isabella was on her journey the Japanese invaded Korea and she had to leave hastily, ending up in China, penniless.

Isabella Bird

I. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA, II. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CAPITAL, III. THE KUR-DONG, IV. SEOUL, THE KOREAN MECCA, V. THE SAILING OF THE SAMPAN, VI. ON THE RIVER OF GOLDEN SAND, VII. VIEWS AFLOAT, VIII. NATURAL BEAUTY - THE RAPIDS, IX. KOREAN MARRIAGE CUSTOMS, X. THE KOREAN PONy-KOREAN ROADS AND INNS, XI. DIAMOND MOUNTAIN MONASTERIES, XII. ALONG THE COAST, XIII. IMPENDING WAR-EXCITEMENT AT CHEMULPO, XIV. DEPORTED TO MANCHURIA, XV. A MANCHURIAN DELUGE - A PASSENGER CART - AN ACCIDENT, XVI. MUKDEN AND ITS MISSIONS, XVII. CHINESE TROOPS ON THE MARCH, XVIII. NAGASAKI-WLADIVOSTOK, XIX. KOREAN SETTLERS IN SIBERIA, XX. THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD, XXI. THE KING'S OATH-AN AUDIENCE, XXII. A TRANSITION STAGE, XXIII. THE ASSASSINATION OF THE QUEEN, XXIV. BURIAL CUSTOMS, XXV. SONG-DO: A ROYAL CITY, XXVI. THE PHYONG-YANG BATTLEFIELD, XXVII. NORTHWARD HO!, XXVIII. OVER THE AN-KIL YUNG PASS, XXIX. SOCIAL POSITION OF WOMEN, XXX. EXORCISTS AND DANCING WOMEN, XXXI. THE HAIR-CROPPING EDICT, XXXII. THE REORGANIZED KOREAN GOVERNMENT, XXXIII. EDUCATION AND FOREIGN TRADE, XXXIV. DAEMONISM OR SHAMANISM, XXXV. NOTES ON DAEMONISM CONCLUDED, XXXVI. SEOUL IN 1897, XXXVII. LAST WORDS ON KOREA, APPENDIXES, INDEX