Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles

Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles provides a wide range of historical patterns and instructions to construct a range of underpinnings, simple pads, a farthingale, 18th century hoops, 19th century crinolines and bustles. The silhouette that enables us to recognize and date historical female garments owes a great deal to the underpinnings that support the costume. Historical underpinnings were constructed to hold and shape the outer garment, creating a silhouette unique to a particular period. The examination of a wide range of original garments forms the basis for each pattern in this book and includes historical information to support each pattern, providing a unique shape that gives a wider choice for the costumer to create an accurate period silhouette. Many of the garments are from unseen collections and present new patterns for the reader. Clear step by step instructions, with supporting diagrams, will enable the reader to produce an accurate period undergarment. Mandy Barrington's method of pattern drafting allows anyone, from students on costume construction courses to professionals working in the costuming industry, to draft and make an authentic historical underpinning.

Mandy Barrington is a Senior Lecturer in Costume at the Arts University Bournemouth with a Distinction at Masters Level in Costume. Her research and study of 18th and 19th century extant underpinnings examines garment proportion in relation to the body. This has enabled Mandy to develop a highly accessible method to draft new historical patterns that directly links the original garment to the body of the intended wearer. Mandy is the author Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body (Routledge, 2015) and the follow-up book Stays and Corsets Volume 2 (Routledge, 2019).

1. How to Use This Book 2. Materials and Equipment 3. Additional Sewing Techniques 4. Measurements 5. Historical Underpinnings 6. 16th Century Farthingale 7. Bum Rolls and Pads 8. 18th Century Pair of Hoops 9. 18th Century Striped Hoops 10. 1860-70 Black and White Striped Crinoline 11. 1860-65 Red Wool Cage Crinoline 12. 1868-71 Red and Cream Wool Crinoline 13. 1870-78 Small Horsehair Bustle 14. 1874 Horsehair Bustle with Ruffles 15. 1872-74 Red and Black Bustle Petticoat 16. 1880s White Cotton Bustle 17. 1875-85 Floral Lobster Bustle