Sewing Machines and Processes

Sewing Machines and Processes presents modern engineering fundamentals of sewing processes and machines for the complete spectrum of sewing stitches. The book covers the construction, working principles, and the mechanics of single systems, such as needle motion, thread tension and compensation devices, material transportation, and grippers and knives. Describing elements for chain stitch, overlock, covering stitches with multiple needles, the book also discusses their kinematic analysis using modern numerical methods and software. Additional focus is given to the thread motion, dynamics, tension measurement, and quality assurance. Readers will learn the main factors for issues with sewing quality and be able to use and adjust modern industrial and household machines for textiles and composites. The book will interest researchers studying and working in the apparel industry and textile production/manufacturing. It will also benefit graduate students taking courses in Apparel Technology, Sewing Technology, Sewing Processes, and Joining Technology of Textiles. The Open Access version of this book, available at http://www.taylorfrancis.com, has been made available under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non Commercial-No Derivatives (CC BY-NC-ND) 4.0 license.

Yordan Kyosev has been head of the chair of assembly technology for textile at ITM, TU Dresden since 2019, where he teaches courses related to joining flexible materials (sewing and welding machines and processes, machines for the preparation of apparel production, product development for apparel production). From 1997 to 2005, he was an assistant professor at TU Sofia, where he taught the construction and development of sewing and textile machines, technical mechanics, and knitting technology. From 2006 to 2019, he was professor at Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences. Dr Kyosev is the founder and main developer of the company TexMind, which provides software for the engineering development and simulation of textile structures, sewing stitches for their joining, and the processes of the formations of both structures and stitches. He uses his software packages (Braider, Braiding Machine Configurator, Warp Knitting Editor, Stitch Creator, TexMind Viewer) to generate large numbers of illustrations and pictures in his books. He is also editor-in-chief of the Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, published by SAGE (IF 0.814) and the journal Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products.

Preface......................................................................................................................vii Editor.........................................................................................................................ix Contributors................................................................................................................x Chapter 1 History of Sewing..................................................................................1 Hassan Saeed Chapter 2 Sewing Stitch Types............................................................................ 10 Yordan Kyosev and Hassan Saeed Chapter 3 Stitch Formation Process.....................................................................26 Yordan Kyosev Chapter 4 Needle Thread Motion........................................................................ 57 Yordan Kyosev Chapter 5 Sewing Needles...................................................................................69 Daniela Sofronova Chapter 6 Sewing Needle: Mechanism and Forces.............................................92 Daniela Sofronova Chapter 7 Sewing Threads................................................................................. 111 Ruth Kneisel Chapter 8 Thread Consumption for Different Stitch Types............................... 162 Yordan Kyosev Chapter 9 Material Transport............................................................................. 174 Hassan Saeed Chapter 10 Quality Control during the Sewing Process...................................... 192 Denise Lenk and Johannes Taesler Chapter 11 The Evolution of Embroidery Machines...........................................205 Cindy Elschner and Judith Hahn Chapter 12 Embroidery of Conductive Threads in Textiles................................228 Daniela Sofronova and Radostina A. Angelova Chapter 13 Spacer Stitching.................................................................................260 Hassan Saeed Chapter 14 Sewing Machines for Leather and Other Heavy Products................ 275 Tatjana Spahiu, Liliia Chertenko and Ermira Shehi Chapter 15 Automated Sewing Places.................................................................295 Sophie Herz, Karl Hesse and Laura Spindler Index....................................................................................................................... 313